Etching primer is intended for use on new metal to give paint adhesion, not to control rust. Read the technical sheets for the proper prep, do not believe what someone tells you.Įtching primer is a common fail point. Etching is done mechanically or with chemicals. The warpage comes from the surface of the metal being expanded from the hits.Įpoxy paint and bondo stick to properly 'etched' metal. Sandblasting only warps panels if you have too high a pressure or too much media. These products can kill you if you give them a chance. They can be invaluable in helping you to understand these new products and procedures and will be happy to help you especially since most work on commission. Most PPG reps had their own shops at some point and are very knowledgable. Our PPG rep comes to the shop every Thursday to demonstrate new products and answer any questions we might have. Stick with one product line and resist the temptation to take shortcuts to save a few $. Good luck! Should take you about 4 days minimum to wet sand and buff a full size car. Figure about $1500 in materials to paint a full size car if you want a quality job. If using Base/Clear apply 3 coats of Base followed by 4 coats of Clear. DP-90 is just as moisture proof as paint so once the metal is in sealer you can take your time. For durability the best paint job is the thinnest paint job. Follow the product directions to the letter especially mixing ratios and application and recoat times. Finally reseal with DP-90 within 72 hours of final paint or you will need to scuff the sealer with a Scotchbrite pad before paint. Seal as soon as possible with PPG DP-90 Sealer, primer using K-36, do your sanding and filling, another coat of K-36 then block and block some more. Then the discussion on which is the best epoxy primer.Įtch the metal if necessary but no need to etch if the surface has been sandblasted. I'm NOT an expert but there is no excuse for not asking questions and not being informed. You just have to sort it out and ask the experts. there is a lot of discussion on the subject. I, and no body else wants to go through a repaint. This is the cumulative understanding I have gotten by many, many nights of research and the expert advice from a really great guy named Marty Lum. You'll have to sand again with 80 grit before the high build primer. The 2 part epoxy is supposed to prevent rust from reappearing because when it dries it is as hard as wood pecker lips. It will react with Ospho.ĭA or sand the Ospho again, when dry or after a day or so, with 80 grit, wipe it clean with paint manufacturers recommended cleaner and degreaser and spray with 2 part epoxy.Ģ part epoxy is BAD, B A D, stuff so have a professional spray it for you or buy an air supplied respirator. do not use metal etching epoxy primer over Ospho. The many sites/forums on the subject say. It has sat in an unheated, uncooled garage in North Carolina, for about 8 months now, with NO sign of rust appearing. I wiped it down with a small rag, wet with Ospho. My 30 Chrysler is/was sanded to the bare metal. and there is a lot of discussion on the same topic. Are you new to body and paint work? What kind of garage do you have to work in? How much work do you plan to do yourself, will you have a professional paint the car or do any other work? What kind of car, and how good of a job do you want? Edited Apby Rusty_OToole (see edit history)įrom my research from the internet. It is hard to answer your questions without more information. But if a car is stored in an unheated garage for weeks or months you have to be careful and put it in a heated garage for several days to dry out, before finishing the paint job. Normally this is not a problem if you are working in a heated garage in winter, or warm weather in summer, and finish the repair work and paint within a reasonable time. If you mean to leave it in primer it is best to spray on a coat of clear to seal it.Įven if no rust is evident, primer can soak up moisture which will come out and ruin your paint job. Primer by itself will not keep off rust, the car needs to be painted within a reasonable time. Then repair rust and dents, fill, and prime in the usual way. Metal prep leaves a residue that will keep off rust for a time if the car is indoors and dry. Usually we sandblast only rusty areas then wipe down with metal prep. The bare metal will rust very easily if not protected. It is not a good idea to sandblast a whole car.
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